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The newest wine from Lafite’s Longdai winery in China costs RMB2988 / USD419 and raises a question for me.
If you wanted some idea of China’s quality wine scene, what would be better?
Option A. One bottle of wine made here by a world-famous Bordeaux winery.
Or, for the same money:
Option B: Ten to twelve bottles from producers across a half-dozen regions, using popular grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and lesser-known ones like Marselan, Rkatsiteli and Beichun, in styles that also include pet-nat and orange?
I’m voting for Option B.
Not only does such a lineup appeal to my sense of discovery but it gives me a treasure trove of wine to share with friends. So, I created a pair of “discovery lists” — one “classic” and one “hipster” — below.
But first, this is not to dismiss Longdai, the Shandong-based operation of DBR Lafite. It is a key producer, due both to its investment of time, money and skill and to so many consumers here still being infatuated with status–and “Lafite” has loads of that.
Status also matters to the critics, educators and writers—the vintelligentsia—who opine on what is China’s best wine. What better weathervane than a made-in-China Bordeaux-style wine made by the best-known producer from that region, especially if it approaches what is made back home?
Anyway, I wondered what other local wines I might buy for that same money. So I used the jd.com shop of Terry Xu aka Xiao Pi, a wine critic who makes info easy for consumers to grasp.
When I checked, Xiao Pi had Lafite’s Longdai listed at RMB2450 / US$335, so I used his shop to make two lists for that same amount — a “classic” list of local Cabernet, Chardonnay et al, and a “hipster” list of local orange wines, pet-nat et al.
As I’m limiting myself to his shop, it means many other worthy wines are not included. And even within his shop, I had tough decisions to make. That just shows how much choice we have now with intriguing local wines!
Below is the “classic” list. I’ll post the “hipster” list tomorrow.
CLASSIC LIST
Including one bubbly, three whites, four reds and one sweet wine. Plus, a bonus bottle of for spending over RMB1000.
Grace Vineyard ‘Angelina’ Reserve
RMB251 / US$34
I considered putting Chandon Ningxia’s brut here, maybe even its rosé, but decided on Grace as I enjoy the hints of brioche, walnut skin and mature stone fruit in this traditional-method bubbly made by the team headed by chief winemaker Lee Yeanyean.
This ranks among China’s top sparkling wines, a list that includes DEVO and Chandon from Ningxia and SunGod from Hebei.
Domaine Charme Viognier
RMB259 / US$35
Rhone favorites like Syrah and Viognier are rising in popularity in Ningxia and when it comes to the latter grape, Charme is best so far, IMHO. Winemaker Deng Zhongxiang has experimented with Viognier using steel tanks, oak barrels and acacia barrels, and used it for a delicious ‘orange’ wine, too.
See my article about Deng, Ningxia’s “driving winemaker.”
Canaan Riesling
RMB238 / US$33
Good Riesling isn’t that easy to find in China, but Canaan, just outside Beijing in Huailai County, does a decent one, with tell-tale notes of diesel along with ripe stone fruit and a subtle minerality.
Zaxee Chardonnay
RMB328 / USD46
Chardonnay is pretty common across China but it is this crisp clean refreshing riff, with ample orchard fruit character, that makes me reach for a second and third glass. Made by Zaxee, aka The Walnut Tree Winery, 2500 meters high in Yunnan’s Shangri-la region.
(The shop has other nice Chardonnays, too, including from Helan Qing Xue and Lansai. For those on a budget, the RMB78 offering from Helan Mountain / Pernod Ricard is excellent value.)
Canaan Cabernet Sauvignon
RMB178 / USD25
This is an entry-level Cabernet from Canaan in Huailai Country, delivering on taste while not crushing the budget. Pleasant for both newbies and aficionados, with fresh clean ripe fruit and toasty nutty notes from the oak. Smooth, easy-drinking, fun.
Grace Vineyard Marselan
RMB231 / US32
Marselan has emerged as a signature grape of China and Grace offers one of the best combinations of taste and quality. This one hails from Shanxi, with 30 percent of the wine aged 15 months in new French oak. Expect a fairly rich smooth wine with dark berry character and hints of earth and spices. It’s part of the Tasya’s Reserve series, which includes an Aglianico of all grapes, and is very good across the board.
(Interested in Marselan? Check out my World Marselan Day project.)
Lansai Pinot Noir
RMB328 / USD46
Ningxia has more in common with Mendoza than Burgundy, yet the latter’s signature grape is used for some very tasty wines, including this smooth toasty number with ripe red fruit and hints of earth, cocoa and graphite. Another wine made under the watchful eye of Deng Zhongxiang. And a beautiful place to visit.
(I see the shop also has a nice Pinot Noir from Canaan: one of those wines was the first to earn a million-point score.)
Puchang Saperavi
RMB268 / US$37
I’m a fan of Puchang’s wines across the board and picked Saperavi to represent the growing number of varieties beyond French. Circling its full rich body are complex berry, herb and spice, and umami notes. I like to pair this with Puchang’s Rkatsiteli for a one-two Georgian grape-inspired punch.
Domaine Franco-Chinois Petit Manseng
RMB383 / US$53
If I ever make a list of 20 bottles that changed my mind about Chinese wine, Domaine Franco-Chinois’ Petit Manseng will be there. Delightfully viscous, with apricot and spiced honey character, and smoky jasmine tea notes.
(I like it so much that a dozen years ago, long before DFC had a commercial license, I sourced bottles directly from the winery for a friend’s wedding in Beijing.)
RMB2464 is the grand total for our ten wines, including bonus bottle,just under the cost of that one bottle of Longdai.
I realize some might criticize this list for lacking some equivalents to the Bordeaux-style red of Longdai. But the shop has that covered, with its own select six-pack, including some Cabernet-driven wines from well-known producers such as Helan Qing Xue, Legacy Peak and Silver Heights, for the same price: see below.
That’s it for the “classic” list, what I think is a pretty nice blend of regions, grape varieties, wines styles and producer sizes. I’ll post the “hipster” list soon!
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