Chardonnay in China: Harvest at Wangzhong, Helan Mountain, Grace and Great River Hill

By Jim Boyce

Harvest is upon us in China and I asked some of the nation’s more interesting Chardonnay makers what is happening in their fields. From west to east…

Lilian Carter, winemaker at relatively new operation Wangzhong in the Xinjiang region, says the harvest started this week and is on a similar schedule as last year.

“The quality is up on last year with better sugar, acid and flavor synergies,” she says. “Last year, the crop was light and a little exposed. This year the acid retention has been better due to milder conditions and a later start to the growing season.”

This is the third vintage at Wangzhong, which bottles its wine under the label Tiansai / Skyline.

Brett Richardson, head of viticulture at Pernod Ricard-owned operation Domaine Helan Mountain in the Ningxia region, says the Chardonnay harvest should start in the next week or two. He expects quality to remain on par with last year although he says “the birds are giving us grief this year!”

Helan Mountain includes a Chardonnay in four of its ranges, with the Special Reserve, made under the direction of winemaker Craig Grafton, getting especially good reviews.

Lee Yean Yean, production manager at Grace Vineyard in Shanxi province, says harvest is on the usual schedule. The team picked the Chardonnay for its sparkling wine last week and will pick for its still wine this week, he says.

In addition to a Chardonnay bubbly, Grace uses the grape for its entry-level, premium, People’s Series and Tasya’s Reserve wines.

And Marc Dworkin, chief consultant at Great River Hills in coastal Shandong province, said the Chardonnay was harvested last week.

“As good as last year!” he states. He said that picking was done earlier this year due to lower summer rainfall and says he expects an alcohol volume of 12.5 percent alcohol. This will be the fourth vintage for Great River Hill, which bottles its wines under the label Chateau Nine Peaks.

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